I was so pleasantly surprised at how cozy it felt. I've been an ocean away from my family at Christmas before, and it's hard. But if I couldn't have my family with me, I think this was the next best way to do it.
First, you should know that Santa does not visit Austrian children. Saint Nicholas comes on the 6th of December to fill good children's boots with chocolate, oranges, and nuts, but he has nothing to do with Christmas. In fact, outside of my room, there was not the smallest clue that Christmas was approaching until Christmas Eve.
This is because the Christkind (literally, "Christ child") brings all of the decorations and gifts together on the evening of the 24th. So we locked the living room door on the 23rd, to give the Christkind plenty of time to transform our living room without peeking eyes.
On Christmas Eve (called Weihnachten), we dressed up for Kindermasse (children's mass), came home from church, ate a delicious salmon dinner, and awaited the bell that would be Christkind's signal to us that he's unlocked the living room door. You should have seen the girls when that bell rang. They burst into that room like nobody's business, and we walked in to find a beautifully decorated and lit tree, gifts surrounding it on all sides, a giant polar bear on the couch, and other little Christmas-y things scattered around the room.
Elena and Elisabeth took turns at the piano as we sang Christmas carols together. You're welcome for only making you suffer through a minute of our singing. ;)
We snapped a few pictures in front of the tree and got to work on the pile of gifts.
Shortly after, we headed around the corner to the grandparents', where Oma and Opa, the uncle and his girlfriend, and the aunt were waiting for Christkind to ring their bell, and when he did, I had a clear view of the girls' face, and it was as if any American kid had seen Santa, himself--they were beside themselves!
We headed to the living room, opened the door, and my breath was just taken away. There stood a giant tree, grazing the ceiling, with beautiful ornaments, lights, and...CANDLES! I've only seen this in books and movies, and it was the most beautifully decorated tree I can remember. I was seriously in heaven for the next 20 minutes or so. Opa, in his suit and tie, read the Christmas story from Luke as we all stood side-by-side, and then we sang several more German Christmas carols. Oh, if I could do this every day, I don't think it would ever get old!
And then came the cookies. A GIANT plate of them sat on the coffee table as everyone opened gifts. At least 9 or 10 different types, and not the typical ginger snaps or sugar cookies. These were beautiful. Almond clusters, marzipan-covered macadamia nuts, chocolate-covered hazelnuts, coconut balls, lebkuchen, and others I don't know how to call. We went through it in 40 minutes or so, and out came Oma with the plate re-loaded. And then again. And then, the next day, at lunch, we had a couple more platefuls! I tell you, these crazy Austrians are baking for weeks to prepare for Christmas!
To cap the evening, I got to Skype with Gran, with Patti, Charlie, and my sister, and my Mom. And the next day, I watched my parents, uncle, sisters and brother open their gifts via Skype, got to call Grandma Ditz, my German grandma who doesn't have internet, and call Grandpa (and, oops, make him cry), and Skype with my amazing Boston aunt, uncle, and cousins. There is no other way to describe how I felt than full with happiness to the point of bursting.
Honestly, I ask myself: is this really my life? How did I manage to get to experience this beautiful Austrian celebration? How did I get so lucky with such a family, who still fill me up even when I'm several time zones away?
I wish you all as many smiles as my face has shown lately.
Grace and peace,
Hilary